I had a couple days off in Düsseldorf to fully recuperate and finally get my appetite back, while Eloise left the tour for a week to meet up with family for a mini side-trip around Germany. I then cycled solo towards Essen, making it through the first 20km, and the weather was hot, hot, HOT!! Temperatures were in the early 30s that day, but I didn't start cycling until around 7pm when it was (somewhat) cooling down.
I reached a campsite a couple of hours later, which was really more like an empty camper-van plot that I was permitted to set up my tent in for the night. I awoke well before 8am the next morning as my tent became an oven fuelled by the sunshine. I was relieved to feel it was not nearly as hot as I feared when I exited my tent, but still, the promise of 35 degree heat in the afternoon forced me to quickly cover the remaining 20km to Essen, and I hid in a cafe for the rest of the day. The show at Faye & Cüneyt's was lovely.
And then, once again, as my tour route resembles a game of 'ping pong', I was back on the bike the next day to cover the entire distance back to Düsseldorf for a last-minute fun show at Thomas's place.
Starting to really feel more like myself, I was up early enough the next morning to make the 65km cycle all the way from Düsseldorf to Wesel; this marked the beginning of the final leg towards Rotterdam, and I noticed the buildings and bike paths appearing more and more Dutch as I got closer to the border.
Sven, the brother of Basel house concert host Kai, hosted for me a small and very enjoyable night, and was a great host and fellow cyclist enthusiast. (Unfortunately no photos of any of these shows exist due to having my tour documenter off enjoying her break.)
El and I met up the next day just outside Wesel and we started our cycle out of Germany towards Millingen aan de Rijn in the Netherlands - a town right on the German/Dutch border. Geert and Trui were our welcoming and very cool hosts for the evening, setting up a nice garden concert and a wonderful welcome to the very chill Netherlands.
The next day for a night off we headed off to a campsite in a town called Groesbeek, which is in what I think is probably the only hilly part of the Netherlands. To get there we had to cycle back through Germany before re-emerging into the Netherlands for the last few kilometres.
Our next show was in the lively student town of Nijmegen, a short 10km away from our campsite, where a fellow "Rob" invited his friends and family out for a nice gig on a Monday night.
We cycled 30km to Wageningen the next day to meet Simon and Elsa at the venue THUIS, a wonderful community centre. We had a great audience out for a Tuesday night, and we got to learn quite a bit about the town's agricultural university, which we are told is one of (if not the) best in the world.
We now had 3 days to cycle the last 100km of the tour to Rotterdam; it felt sad that it was all coming to an end so soon, as I believe sometimes it takes at least a month or so to fully adjust to the cycling lifestyle, how long things take to get going and how much unpredictability can come with it.
We didn't get off easy though. The first day we cycled 40km, getting a nice dose of cold rain for most of the day. We somehow stumbled across a paddock of wallabies during the day, near the town of Rhenen, and we still have no idea why or how they got there.
We had a slightly wet and miserable night camping in the tent in a town not far from Utrecht; truthfully we were lucky that this was the first (and last) time this would happen this tour, considering the weather through Europe this summer.
The following day was sunny and clear again, so we decided it would be best to do the last 65km to Rotterdam in one go in case the weather was not so kind on the third day. What felt like crossing the entire Netherlands in two days was actually not that far from the truth. We watched the small town centres turn quickly into farm lands and back again; we cycled through Gouda, briefly stopping for a coffee.
Around 8pm Thursday night we arrived into the final concert city of the tour - Rotterdam - staying at the hip 'Student Hotel'. We enjoyed some overpriced Heineken beers and the view from our room, almost in a state of shock that aside from the trip to the Hook of Holland on Saturday, we were done!
The next day was a much needed work day, catching up on emails. Our mobile phones had run out of data a few days before, so we were rather behind, but it was a good excuse to go old school and just enjoy being on the bikes.
The final concert of the tour was held on Friday night at three-time concert hosts Daniel & Oliver's, two sweethearts and wonderfully cool hosts. Lots of wine was drunk, stroopwafels eaten and a wonderful final concert had.
We were up the next morning at 8am for a quick breakfast with our hosts before one last journey on our bikes, cycling the last 30km in Europe to the Hook of Holland. This last journey was a very smooth one even though we had no data and left 45 mins late; we arrived in plenty of time to board our ferry for Harwich in the UK, where we are now finishing this journal.
What started as a curious thought about where the beautiful Rhine River began and ended has become a wonderful story we can now tell.
Thanks for following along, we hope you dug the updates! Stay in touch in the usual places for my future tours both on and off the bike!
Rob Moir (& Eloise).